After driving about an hour out of Matsuyama, I found myself sitting in a cute little cafe in Uchiko, sipping a delicious grapefruit frappe, gazing out at (yet another) picture perfect zen garden.
Uchiko is a quaint, Edo style town, brimming with tourists, yet retaining a quiet feel; we all respectfully browse up and down the tourist section, gorging ourselves on the "Japanese" atmosphere and feeling lucky to be on holiday on such a beautiful day.
Yokaichi Gokoku quarter and its surrounding in the town have been designated a national important traditional building preservation zone. The town's predominant industry used to be wax manufacture, and I dutifully wandered about the wax museum, wishing I could read the Japanese information sheet I had been given.
I spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the drive down the coast and managed to find the most perfect camping spot for the night. Driving down small one lane roads, praying not to meet another vehicle, I stumbled upon a tiny bay, with only a couple of farmhouses in residence. Right next to the beach, sheltered by a cliff, was a spot where I could pitch my tent and gaze out to the horizon.
A little old lady was farming in a nearby field, and I went and asked permission to camp, wanting to reassure the locals about the strange gaigin who had appeared in their midst. Later, as I was cooking my dinner, another local walked her dog across the beach and clearly wanted an excuse to talk to me. It turned out she had barely left this secluded hamlet in her life. I congratulated her on her good fortune of being born in such a beautiful spot and we both commiserated about the fishing garbage that litters the beach these days.
Sunset was perfect and I awoke the next morning to exotic emerald waters. Thank you universe. The last shot was a sad goodbye.
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